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De la toile linen cloth Toile grossière dowlas d'Hollande Holland cloth de coton calico de coton des Indes India calico De la flanelle Du damas Du drap De î'écariale De fa fntaine Du basin Du bombasin De la batiste De la moosseîine Du caraelot Du canevas De la caiiTiande La lisière da drap Dn brocard Du bongran Delà frise Du linge ouvré De la pîuche fiannel damask woollen cloth scarlet cloth fustian dimity bombasin cambric muslin camblet canvas callimaneo tlie list of cloth brocade buckram frieze diaper plush lela, f.

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Gibet, potence Ignominie Indigence Infamie Limbes, m. Halte hait alto Invasion invasion una invasione Incursion incursion una scorreria Infanterie infantry,foot r infanteria Illuminations illuminations le illuminazionl Légion légion una legione Levée levy una leva Levée d'un siège raising of a siège levâta d' un assédio Militaire warfare vita militâre Menaces threats le minâcce, pi.

Paix peace la pace Patrouille pairole la pattùglia Prisonnier prisoner un prigioniéro Pillage pillage, plunder un sacchéggio Poursuite pursuit, cliase una câccia Parti party una partita, e banda Parti de traîneurs straggling party partita di soldâtisban- Perdus, égarés missing soldâti smarriti [dâti Poignée de gens liandful ofmen poca gente Peloton platoon uno squadrone Phalange phalanx una falâiige Quartier général liead-qiiartcrs quartiére générale Quartiers d'hyver winter-quarters quartiéri d'invérno Réjouissances rejoicings testa, allegria,f.

Rapine rapine rapina, ruberia, f. Reddition d'une place surrendering of a la resa d'una piazza Rançon ransom yplace riscâtto, m. Coup de canon Une salve Une arme à feu Armes blanches Laraousquéterie Un fusil Un mousquet Une monsquetade Un mousqueton Une carabine Une arquebuse Un pistolet Monture d'une arme stock of a gun La crosse [à feu the but-end una miccia corda, miccia, f.

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Méchantes raarchan- trasli of goods robâccia, f. Négoce trade negozio, trâffico, m. Oublie,paio à cache- wafer ostia, f. Opulence [t er opulence opulénza, f.

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Une once Une demi-once Un quart Un quarteron Un livre Une demi-livre Un quintal Poids de 14 livres Un demi-setier Un pot Une pinte pinte a pint Une chopine ou demi- a half-pint Deux quartes apottle Quatre quartes a gallon Un baril a barrel Uue barique, unmuid a hogshead Une pipe a hutt or pipe Un tonneau a ton JJn picotin a peck tJn boisseau a bushel a weight un peso , troy-weigJit peso di marco a balance, pair of seules una bilâocia a steelyard una stadéra auncel-weio'ht uno staderone una bilancetta îo stilo, il fusto -!

Revendeur huckster, chandler Rentrayeur fine-drawer Rôtisseur cook-shop keeper Rôtisserie cook-shop Regrattier chandler, huckster Raccommodeur de chair-mender Renoueur [chaises hone-setter Savetier Saunier Sellier Serrurier Serger Sculpteur Sculpture Sérancier Sage femme, f. Denteleur de roues Dévidoir, m. Forme brisée anvil hlock for hatters stretclier Flamme, f.

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Parties d'oraison Nom, m. Verbe actif, passif, verb active, passive, verbo, attivo,passivo. Mot indéclinable Mot composé, m. Tiret - Parenthèse, f. L'arithmétique Un arithméticien Un nombre Un tout L'algèbre Un chiffre Un zéro Une fraction Dénominateur Nombre Dixaine Centaine Mille Numération Numérateur Addition Soustraction Multiplication Nombre à multiplier Multiplicateur Division Nombre à diviser Diviseur Le quotient Réduction Règle de trois aritlimetïc an arithmetician a numher an inieger or whole algehra a cypher figure a nought a fraction denominator units tens hundreds thousands numération numerator addition subtraction multiplication multiplicand multiplicator division dividend divisor quotient réduction rule ofthree aritmética, f.

Vingt-mille Trente-mille Quarante-mille 71 Lxxi. Livre de musique La gamme Les notes Une ronde Une blanche Une noire Une croche Double-croche Triple-croche Les silences Une pause Une demi-pause Quatre soupirs 8 demi-soupirs 16 quarts de soupirs 32 demi-quarts de Une octave [soupirs Un demi-ton Un dièse Un bémol Un bécarre Une cadence Une liaison Un fredon La reprise Un intervalle Les proportions Une clef Clef d'ut ou soprano Clef de sol Clefde fa ou de basse La basse chiffrée Ton majeur Ton mineur - Une mesure Le temps music-hook gamut, scale the notes a semihreve a minim a crotchet a quaver semiquaver demisemiquaver the rests 1 semihreve rest 2 minim rests 4 crotchet rests 8 quaver rests 16 seyniquaver rests 32 semiquaver rests an octave a semitone a sharp a fiât a natural a cadence, shake a hind slur trilling, a shake a repeat an interval the proportions a cliff or key soprano cliff the trehle cliff the hass cliff the thorough bass major key minor key a bar time DELLA MUSTCA.

Les instruments Basse de viole, f. Une opale, un girasol an opal stone Une eirasol a s: La gomme L'ambre, m. AmbregrJs L'ammoniac Basilicon Benjoin, m. Mastic gum amber ambergris ammoniac basilicon benjamin bitumen camphirc galbanum guaiacmn manna mastick la gomma r ambra, f. Un camarade Un divertissement Une plaisanterie Un plaisant Un badin Un persifleur Une réjouissance Une bouffonnerie Le rire Des balivernes Un jouet Un enjouement Plaisir, passetems Une récréation Une drôlerie Un jeu Jeu de hazard playfellow diversion jolie a joker a wag a jeerer jollity, merriment drollery laaghter silly stories a laughing -stock mirth pastime, sport récréation waggery a game chance play compagno, camerâta, un divertimento [m.

Carreau diamonds quadri o mattôni,m. Pique spades picche, f. Trèfle clubs fiori, m. Droit de faireles car - deal il far le carte La main [les the lead la mano Dernier en cartes youngest hand d' ûltima mano L'ami partner il compagno Une levée a trick una base, o bazza Une renonce noue of thaï suit un fâgiio La bassette basset la bassétta Le pharaon faro il faraone Le lansquenet lansquenet giuoco délia zara La bête loo giuoco délia bestia Le flux fiush il frussi gofFo Une prime primera bambâra o primiéra Une séquence séquence i séguito di carte del me- i désimo semé L'iiombre ombre giuoco deir ombre Un matador matadore mattadore, m.

Un baste basto basto, m. Le quadrille quadrille il quadriglio L' enjeu the stakes posta, f. Les pois peas i pisélli Les pois chiches chick peas i ceci La cosse des pois peasc. S âjo Un monceau [etc. La sève the sap il sûcehio Une branche a brandi un ramo Une menue brauch 3 a spray, sprig un ramicéllo Un rameau a bovgh frasca, f. Un abricotier Un amandier Un arbousier Un brugnonier Un avelinier Un coudrier Un cannellier Un cerisier Un citronnier Un cocotier Un châtaignier Un carojibier Un coigtiassier Un cormier Un cornouiller an apricot-tree an almond-tree an arhute-tree a nectainne-tree afilhert-tree a hazel-tree a cinnnmon-tree a cherry -tree a lemon, citron-tree a cocoa-tree a chesnut-tree a caroh-tree a quince-tree tt sorb-apple-tree a cornel-tree o 2 un albicocco un mândorlo un corbézzolo un noce pesco un aveilâno un nocciuôlo âlbero délia cannéila ciriégio o ciiiégio un liraône âlbero del cocco un castâgno carrùbbio, guainéUa un cotogno un sorbo un corniole lôO DES FRUITS.

Poire de bon chrétien — de beurré — blanquette — caillot — -rosa — mouille bouche — amadote — d'ambrette, etc. Et en Italien, pera bngiârda — angélica — bergamotta — 'Carovélla — moscadélla — spina, etc. July-floxver fior garôfano, viola ga- Giroflée double stock -gi lly -fiower vioîa dôppia [rotanâta Giroflée jaune îuall-fiower viol-a gialla Une hyacinthe a hyacinth un giacinto Du. Plante médicinale De l'aconit De l'aigremoine De l'aloès De l'anibrosie De l'angélique De l'aspic De l'agnus castus De ia bardane De la bétoine médical plant wolf's hane ayrimony atoes ambrosia angelica spikenard agnus castus burdock hetony erba médicinale r aconito, m.

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Grand persil Gesse, cicerole, f. Graine de lin Hysope, f. Houblon, m, Houx-fiêlon Herbage, m. Herbe au lait, f. Pietro la ginéstra speronélla robbia cardamône vischio frutice ' appio palustre una cicérchia ghiaggiuôlo, giaggiuolo sementa di lino r isopo, e issôpo erba elitrppia epâtica, fegatélla l'ébbio lùppolo, m. Laitue romaine Laitue pommée Légumes, pi. Lentille sauvage Langue de chien Lierre, f.

Langue de serpent Lupin, m. Melon d'eau Mouron, m. Menthe sauvage Menthe aiguë Mandragore, f. Nombril de Vénus Orvale, f. Iiearfs ease [per jacéa, e giacéa, f. Pouliot sauvage Pois chicbes, m.

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The Bitcoin trade charge does not depend on the central bank and there is no single authority that governs the source of CryptoCurrency. Nonetheless, the Bitcoin price relies upon on the level of self confidence its users have, as the much more important companies acknowledge Bitcoin as a process of payment, the much more effective Bitcoin will grow to be.

One of the positive aspects of Bitcoin is its small inflation danger. Conventional currencies undergo from inflation and they are likely to eliminate their obtaining electric power each and every 12 months, as governments continue to use quantative easing to encourage the financial state. Bitcoin would not go through from lower inflation, simply because Bitcoin mining is constrained to just 21 million units. That signifies the launch of new Bitcoins is slowing down and the complete quantity will be mined out inside the next pair of a long time.

Specialists have predicted that the very last Bitcoin will be mined by Bitcoin has a low chance of collapse compared with classic currencies that depend on governments. Bitcoin exchange level is not regulated by any govt and is a digital forex out there globally.

Bitcoin is easy to have. It is that easy to transport Bitcoins compared to paper cash. One particular disadvantage of Bitcoin is its untraceable character, as Governments and other organisations are not able to trace the resource of your cash and as these can bring in some unscrupulous men and women. Compared with other currencies, there are a few techniques to make funds with Bitcoin, conserving, investing and mining.

Bitcoin can be traded on open up markets, which indicates you can get Bitcoin very low and sell them substantial. The value of Bitcoin dropped in latest months for the reason that of the abrupt stoppage of buying and selling in Mt. Gox, which is the most significant Bitcoin exchange in the earth. In accordance to unverified resources, buying and selling was stopped thanks to malleability-relevant theft that was stated to be really worth extra than , The incident has afflicted the self-confidence of the investors to the virtual forex.

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I hope to give something back and aid others like you helped me. Just wish to say your article is as amazing. Nonostante la stanchezza mi sveglio presto , il tempo di ricaricare i bagagli sulla bici e di cambiarmi in una nicchia del parcheggio del condominio di Giulia mentre non passa nessuno, e alle 9 sono di nuovo in marcia lungo la via Emilia. La SS9 è piuttosto trafficata ma affascinante: Taglio tutto il centro entrando per Porta San Vitale, un saluto alla torre e ai portici, passo per la Certosa e arrivo per pranzo a casa di Angela, in via Camonia, traversa di via Battindarno.

Molto bello il duomo, anche se in ristrutturazione. Mi regalano una mappa del nord Italia in olandese. È surreale e grottesco…. Ceno con le cose comprate a Imola, e poi arrivano la notte e le zanzare, più un temporale che alle 4. Sveglia prestissimo , prima delle 7, breve colazione e di nuovo in marcia.

Qui faccio spesa alla Coop, dove rifiutano ed è già la seconda volta il simil-euro cileno che qualcun altro mi deve aver rifilato, e uso il bagno di Mercatone Uno, in cui ero entrato pensando che vendessero anche generi alimentari.

Superata Scandiano, prendo la bella strada Pedemontana: Mi fermo a mangiare un paio di panini in piazza Matteotti a San Polo, dove regalo una merendina a un vagabondo locale: Proseguo per campi e piccole macchie verdi, dove delle prostitute nigeriane attendono i loro clienti a bordo strada, talvolta neanche a bordo, ma ostruendo il passaggio delle automobili.

Ovviamente mi salutano, io ricambio, e una di loro prova a fermarmi con uno scacciamosche. Mi aggiro tra stradine e vicoli semivuoti, sono le cinque ma il sole picchia ancora, il duomo e il battistero occupano lo spazio a loro assegnato con consapevolezza e solennità, in totale silenzio. Dopo aver costeggiato il torrente Parma su uno stradone poco affollato, ritorno in campagna per la via Massese, una provinciale stretta e abbastanza trafficata.

Arrivato dopo 10 km, Matteo mi viene a prendere in piazza con la bici: A casa sua mi accoglie, con la gentilezza tipica di chi potrebbe conoscerti da una vita, tutta la sua famiglia, genitori e nonni, offrendomi il più buon parmigiano e lambrusco mai assaggiati in vita mia. Dopo una buona cena, tante chiacchiere e scambi musicali, facciamo un giro per una Parma vestita a festa, viali affollati e giovani addobbati. Il mattino della campagna parmense mi sveglia con scrosci di temporale fin dalle 8.

Arrivo rapidamente a Parma, passo in tranquillità gli ampi viali, entro sotto la tettoia della stazione e dopo tre secondi di orologio inizia il diluvio. La stazione di Parma , colorata, moderna, diventa un eremo per i viaggiatori e per i pendolari. Due anziane e distinte signore pagano un biglietto in anticipo di alcuni giorni con una banconota da duecento euro.

Non sapevo fossero gialle. Sul treno per Milano incontro una signora bionda, sportiva, che dà immediatamente inizio a una piacevole e interminabile conversazione con me; è di Parma e ha 55 anni, ma ne dimostra neanche quaranta: Dice di apprezzare i viaggi avventurosi ed economici, mi racconta le sue disavventure in autostop e di quando fu salvata da un elicottero sul fondo di un ghiacciaio vicino Chamonix, mi dice di fare attenzione ai costi di qualsiasi cosa se decido di andare in Svizzera, ci raccontiamo praticamente le rispettive vite e viaggi.

Prima impressione, appena uscito dalla Stazione Centrale: Manca solo Parco della Vittoria. Mi addentro per le vie grigie e frenetiche. Del resto, con la nebbia ci si deve annoiare un sacco.

Nei lunghi viali grigi e biondo platino le scritte delle marche ti aggrediscono come versi di animali feroci: Niente da dire, un bel souvenir, ben lavorato. Decido di omaggiarlo con una foto dal cellulare, insieme alla mia bici. Ed ecco che Milano mi fa pagare il conto: Mi vedo costretto ad abbandonare il mio mezzo da un ciclista in via Lecco, lasciandogliela in riparazione per una notte e portandomi dietro zaino e borse. Aspetto che Silvia esca dal lavoro a Porta Venezia, e involontariamente, complici forse le borse che mi porto appresso, mi mescolo a un gruppo di barboni.

Lo pago, dice alcune frasi biascicate in dialetto, probabilmente tra sé e sé, lo saluto, ricambia senza sorridere. Alla biglietteria una signora anziana ha un lieve malore, il funzionario le porge una sedia premuroso.

Gli unici treni con trasporto bici, vengo a sapere, passano per Bologna, e non costano moltissimo. Cerco a fatica di seguire la vecchia via Comasina evitando tangenziali, rampe e superstrade. Chiedo informazioni e la mia parlata viene immediatamente identificata, sia pur con simpatia: Mi ritrovo su una strada a due corsie dritta e in leggera salita, binari a lato, centri commerciali e campi.

Scorrono paesini e camion, col passare dei chilometri la provincia di Como, già annunciata dalla vista del Resegone sulla destra, strappa faticosamente la scena al grigiore milanese, e il paesaggio migliora progressivamente.

Tra scorci di boschi e campi di pannocchie mi avvicino alla periferia di Como, e dopo tanta salita costante, anche se leggera, mi attende una discesa decisamente brusca su uno stradone a tre corsie, mentre oltrepasso i primi edifici. La città di Como è una non-città , e questo la rende bella tanto quanto Milano è rovinata dal suo essere una troppo-città: In piazza Cavour mi attende Marta, e dopo essermi rinfrescato e aver poggiato la bici a casa di sua madre in centro, ci viene a prendere suo padre: Ci fermiamo a Carate, nei pressi di una chiesetta, a fare il bagno: Sono quasi le otto di sera, e la luce dorata del tramonto si sposa col lago e coi monti circostanti.

Il tempo di asciugarsi, con la pelle ancora limacciosa per le acque non salate, e saliamo sui monti a casa del padre di Marta: Quindi, mi pare giusto dormire ancora meno del previsto e uscire la sera per vedere un concerto jazz a Tremezzo, proprio sulle rive del lago.

Mi posso permettere di passare qualche semaforo rosso, e in stazione Centrale imbarco la bici insieme a due milanesi diretti a Firenze, e a quattro francesi diretti chissà dove. Tutti hanno bici più attrezzate della mia, e tende Quechua in spalla. È appesantito dal bagaglio, eppure si libra con una certa agilità. È colorato in mezzo alla gente, colorato solamente della sua condizione.

Il viaggiatore in bicicletta è un essere che non conosce la paura: Il disponibilissimo capotreno mi aiuta a cercare coincidenze dei regionali per ridurre il mio viaggio ed evitarmi la nottata a Santa Maria Novella. Nel frattempo, mi concedo anche qualche ora di riposo a Bologna pranzando di nuovo con Angela e compagnia, stavolta a casa di Laura.

Verso le 6, col fresco, eccomi ad attendere che il treno per Prato si svuoti delle bici di un gruppo di scout, saranno una trentina, sembra un film di Kurosawa. Si imbarca con me una ragazza con la bici da passeggio, diretta a Firenze.

La aiuto a caricare la bici sui ganci da trasporto e con lei scambiamo qualche parola con la simpatica capotreno riguardo Firenze, la sua viabilità, il costo della vita. Firenze, Santa Maria Novella: Pochi turisti silenziosi, kebab a portar via per me.

Brezza fresca nei vicoli e Vernacoliere in stazione. Una coppia di simpatici francesi in bici fa il mio stesso viaggio. Ad Arezzo due poliziotti salgono sul treno. Una ragazza cinese entra ed esce dalla carrozza. La notte della bassa Toscana dispensa rari fantasmi luminosi e sporadici controllori sorridenti.

Saluto i due francesi, raccomando loro di fare attenzione. Le vie della capitale, pur se familiari, le percorro con uno spirito di scoperta, di novità. Su via Cavour, un tassista mi sorpassa a destra. Sono tornato a casa. Dopo una settimana di riposo , torno ad avere voglia di strada e di chilometri. La sveglia stavolta è alle 6.

Roma dorme ancora, tra qualche ora si alzerà per andare al mare. Vago per la casa ancora nella semioscurità alla ricerca di cose necessarie e non. In stazione tossici canticchiano motivetti in falsetto. Odore di urina diffuso e persistente. Al bar della stazione, un uomo ordina una birra Moretti da 66 cl. Arriva Federico , saliamo sul treno per Civitavecchia dove già ci aspetta Laura. Scendiamo a Santa Severa che il mattino è ancora tiepido.

Alla stazione, un africano parla al cellulare. Ripartito, il treno si lascia dietro la gialla desolazione dei campi deserti per il giorno di festa. Due ragazzi probabilmente reduci dalla nottata ci chiedono inutilmente una cartina per fare una canna. Dopo averli lasciati sul marciapiede della stazione, ci mettiamo finalmente in cammino: Poche centinaia di metri di Aurelia, un bar di una stazione di servizio miracolosamente aperto, e svoltiamo per la strada provinciale verso Tolfa: Un asino si divincola nei cespugli proprio accanto alla strada.

Molti ciclisti salgono e scendono per i tornanti, bici da corsa e tenuta colorata. Si sale sempre, in maniera irregolare ma costante: Intorno, colli già travestiti da monti; la quota di Tolfa è di m s. Uno degli agricoltori sembra vestito da astronauta, chissà perché. Intanto, il sudore mi ara la barba. Un paio di chilometri in discesa, ancora saliscendi e ricomincia la salita, lo strappo finale per il paese.

Cogliamo delle succose more a bordo strada, ogni tanto ci avvolgono violente vampate di liquirizia dai prati. Superata la piazza, ci aggiriamo per le vie semideserte del paese in cerca di cibo. Lasciate le bici presso la casa di una famiglia di bestemmiatori piemontesi che, assai diligentemente, non mancano di inveire contro la Vergine, giacché è il suo giorno: La mia maglietta nera, colata e sudicia, viene ribattezzata Sindone, tanto per restare in tema religioso.

Arrampicandoci a piedi nudi per un passaggio a destra del cancello, che è chiuso con un lucchetto, entriamo nella parte antica della rocca, tra i merli e gli archi di pietra grezza che sfidano tempo e gravità. Tra i mattoni crescono finocchio selvatico e menta, facendosi largo tra le crepe.

Un motivo in più per tornarci. Scendendo, veniamo cordialmente intercettati e importunati dai piemontesi, che si dicono appassionati ciclisti e ci salutano a più riprese leggi: Ma fatela bere prima alla signorina! Il conto è ingrato, ben 10 euri a testa. Ci lanciamo in un bellissimo tratto di discesa, ancora pascoli e boschi, ma i colori, complice anche la luce del pomeriggio, cambiano, e lo scenario si tinge di bruciato.

Si presentano brevi ma incisivi strappi di salita, mentre costeggiamo un torrente semiessiccato, a tratti melmoso. Ci fermiamo presso un abbeveratoio, dopo esserci urlati a vicenda canzoni di Battiato e Rino Gaetano durante la pedalata: Mentre ci riposiamo tirando al cavallo qualche meletta selvatica, troppo agre per noi, il cane si avvicina rantolando, ci annusa: Voltandosi ostenta un paio di enormi testicoli, poi si accascia a terra, riportando lo scenario alla situazione di partenza.

Le colline, benché dolci allo sguardo, si rivelano aspre al pedale. Ci fermiamo varie volte, di cui una per raccogliere degli aculei di istrice, mele selvatiche e prugnole. In seguito alla spesa diventiamo una sorta di condomini su ruote, per il carico aumentato; il pomeriggio volge al termine e le gambe cominciano a lamentarsi. Da qui la strada si fa più trafficata e pericolosa: La luce del tardo pomeriggio dipinge in modo tenue e delicato i contorni del paesaggio, e la stanchezza ci morde le gambe: Ci uniamo a un gruppo di simpatici campeggiatori, abusivi come noi, sedendoci al loro fuoco: La notte scorre umida e tranquilla, turbata solo dalle ansie di Federico che si sveglia ed esce dalla tenda solamente per togliere il suo morbidissimo sellino dalla bici, proteggendolo in tal modo da presunti furti.

Mattinata tiepida , risveglio che passa dalle gocce di umidità condensata fuori e dentro la tenda fino ad arrivare alle acque del lago di Martignano, con tanto di nuotata rigenerante. Poi, colazione con mandorle, miele e succo di frutta, e di nuovo in marcia, tanto il costume si asciugerà nella brezza mattutina. Ripercorriamo lo sterrato, e ci fermiamo alla fonte per fare acqua.

Un signore piuttosto anziano che riempie svariate bottiglie ci consiglia una ciclabile che ci permette di evitare di allungare per Anguillara. Svoltiamo a destra verso la Cassia prima di entrare a Trevignano, e una dura salita ci sorprende ancora mezzi addormentati, mentre ci allontaniamo dal lago. Poco più avanti, incontriamo quattro signori tedeschi , probabilmente due coppie, che percorrono la via Francigena verso Roma. Vengono da Firenze e poi Assisi, ci spiegano nella loro lingua, incoraggiati ad usarla da qualche parola di Federico, e perdono continuamente il percorso della via per le scarse indicazioni.

Mentre Federico visita don Romano, io e Laura ci aggiriamo per le vie del centro, alla vana ricerca di un bar. Quando torna, si presenta con tre lattine di Peroni ghiacciata, offerte dal vescovo in persona, che tracanniamo alla sua salute proprio di fronte alla facciata del duomo, per poi lanciarci in una ripida discesa attraverso veri e propri canyon di tufo, diretti alla stazione di Borghetto.

Ovviamente non hanno i biglietti supplemento bici, quindi una volta saliti avvertiamo il controllore, vagamente simile a Nanni Moretti, che contro ogni previsione si mostra umano e non fa storie. Dopo aver caricato non senza qualche problema le bici prima in testa e poi in coda al convoglio, ci si ristora per colazione con succo e ciambelline, mentre fuori scorrono baraccopoli e paesaggi industriali.

Passata Guidonia, le sagome appenniniche si profilano foriere di fatica e salita. Arriviamo nella quiete assorta della stazione di Tivoli alle 8. Ampi platani ci parano il primo sole del mattino; giungiamo a un baretto isolato, dove ci serve una gentile e graziosa biondina sorridente. Si prosegue su freschi e ombrosi falsopiani. Ci lasciamo sulla destra la rocca di Castel Madama, con alcune rovine, e passiamo attraverso Vicovaro, dove un cartello millantatore ci indica: Ad Arsoli è giorno di mercato , e il paesino è affollato di vecchi urlanti e matrone che fanno la spesa, quindi troviamo di buon gusto rimetterci la maglietta.

Mentre Federico aspetta che un matusa riempia le sue bottiglie alla fontana, io mi concedo il lusso di acquistare ben due salsiccette di cinghiale a un chiosco. Giungiamo quindi a un altopiano e a un rettilineo, circondati da nuovi rilievi, più verdi, più aspri di prima.

Ottenute indicazioni dal gentilissimo sosia di Mark Knopfler incontrato nella piazza principale, incomincia la salita dei Colli di Montebove, che dai m circa di Carsoli ci porterà al valico, a m s. Ci riusciamo tirando come matti e superando agevolmente malgrado il sudore che ci riga il volto la prima parte di salita in 46 minuti netti. Federico comunque non è soddisfatto, sperava in un tempo più vicino alla mezzora.

Appena usciti da Carsoli , passiamo sotto a un vecchio ponte ferroviario ad arco; su uno dei pilastri la scritta a chiare lettere: Ci fermiamo su uno scalone ombreggiato da alberi di fico per consumare il nostro lauto pasto: Il tempo di asciugarsi il sudore negando questa soddisfazione al vento, di allacciarsi il grottesco casco e comincia a discesa. Ci immergiamo letteralmente negli umori del bosco, mentre al versante di Tagliacozzo già viene preclusa la luce del sole, che è già diretto a ovest a violentare altre notti.

La discesa, invece, è meno violenta di quanto ci aspettassimo, e scivola via come un soffio, senza eccessiva velocità. Compaiono quindi le prime case di Tagliacozzo.

Tagliacozzo è un affascinante e vivace centro turistico. Famigliole che hanno poco chiaro il concetto di precedenza a una fontanella, bambini urlanti su tricicli cigolanti, nonne scostanti e mamme ciarlanti, tamarri guidanti auto di cilindrata smodata. Cerchiamo un posto tranquillo dove bere un bicchiere di vino e parlare del percorso per cui intendiamo proseguire, e la presenza di vecchi sbandati e malvissuti ci sembra un ottimo criterio per la scelta del bar: Niente vino, che fa male.

Decidiamo di evitare Avezzano per il presunto traffico, passando per la più suggestiva strada che passa per Villa San Sebastiano e Corcumello, e attraversiamo una mite vallata. Vallata che si rivelerà essere una trappola, in quanto cul-de-sac.

Infatti mentre godiamo dei 14 km successivi di lievissimi saliscendi alla luce annebbiata del tramonto, con le ombre che si allungano ad inseguire le ultime greggi rimaste, ci accorgiamo di essere finiti sul fondo di una conca, circondati come siamo da alture e rilievi da ogni lato. Riprendo forze lacerando a morsi la seconda salsiccia di cinghiale comprata ad Arsoli, per affrontare lo sforzo imprevisto. Dopo qualche chilometro di pianura a ritroso nella conca, costeggiando i monti che ci separano da Avezzano per cui dovremo comunque passare , nonché ragazzine acchittate in bicicletta, ci imbattiamo nella salita: La sera fa capolino, e i grilli si riprendono il loro regno prestato alle automobili per le ore diurne.

Due grassocce sportive in tuta ci dicono che il valico è presso il santuario, che intravediamo già tra i tornanti. Giunti al valico di San Silvano m , la stanchezza e lo scoramento sono ripagati dal panorama della valle successiva: La città ci appare dapprima sconfinata , poi, mentre la discesa ci ristora, si rivela essere un paesone piatto e spoglio, la cui pochezza era mascherata dalle copiose file di lampioni.

Man mano che si susseguono i tornanti scoscesi aumenta la densità di passanti e automobili, e diminuisce la luce, finché tutto non si dissolve in una massa scura e umida. Passata Avezzano, e chieste indicazioni a dei tamarri palestrati molto disponibili e fin troppo loquaci, ci avviamo per gli ultimi 9 km della statale che ha permesso di evitare la superstrada: Il fascio di luce spettrale ci permette di distinguere a malapena la strada, mentre ci addossiamo il più possibile alla striscia bianca a bordo strada.

Fortunatamente giungiamo a Luco dei Marsi senza essere arrotati; qui ci attende, presso il suo negozio di foto e telefonia, il padre di Sinibaldo, per guidarci a casa sua in bici, poco fuori dal paese, dove sua moglie ci sta già preparando la cena.

I due sono gentilissimi, più di quanto ci meritiamo, e ci fanno trovare una cena con alcuni prodotti del loro orto: Il padre è abituato a correre e ad andare in bici, parliamo soprattutto di strade e tragitti da fare, prima che una doccia ristoratrice e un sonno profondo ci avvolgano i corpi stanchi. Il tempo di una breve colazione e di un biglietto di ringraziamento lasciato sul tavolo, e ci ritroviamo a pedalare su uno sterrato in direzione di Trasacco.

Un vecchio con evidenti difficoltà di articolazione fonetica ci indica la strada per Gioia dei Marsi, e ci insegue col suo bastone tremolante per cercare quasi disperatamente di prolungare la conversazione nata in quel modo, tra suoni striduli che sembrano filastrocche. Da Gioia dei Marsi cominciano le asperità della salita, per il bellissimo tratto di SS83 che attraverso tornanti e ombrosi drittolinei ci porta al valico di Gioia Vecchio, familiarmente detto Passo del Diavolo per i suoi m di altezza.

La salita scorre piuttoso agevolmente, rallentata solo da un paio di pause e dalla catena della mia bici che esce dal rocchetto. Ci sorpassano alcuni ciclisti con bici da corsa, tutti con la loro tenuta sgargiante, poi un ragazzo in mountain bike, che risorpassiamo dopo qualche curva, e infine un ciclista che rallenta per scambiare qualche parola con noi, per poi staccarci e allontanarsi: Proseguiamo guadagnando in quota altimetrica e perdendo in possibilità di eventuali future paternità, lasciando i nostri scroti a friggere tra sellino e sudore.

Veniamo svegliati dal sonno di una fisarmonica amplificata che esegue successi di dubbio gusto: Dei gruppi di gitanti romani ballano e cantano e battono le mani fuori tempo: Menre li deridiamo con discrezione e da lontano, ci invitano a unirci a loro nel loro ballo kitsch, ma decliniamo adducendo come motivazione la stanchezza della pedalata, mentre cerchiamo di indovinare quale sia la hit successiva.

Superando lo svacco della sosta, riusciamo a rimontare in sella e a salutarli allontanandoci trionfalmente sulle note della società dei magnaccioni. Usciamo da Pescasseroli seguendo il corso della SS83 Marsicana e del fiume Sangro, che ci taglia la strada più volte.

Boschi su boschi, pettinati da rari impianti sciistici. Alba sulla Camosciara, una famiglia di daini si abbevera sul lago. Saliamo fino al passo, a metri circa, per poi lanciarci nella discesa verso Alfedena, che attraversiamo quasi senza fermarci.

Sciami di nonne e ragazzini ci osservano, forse perché pedaliamo seminudi in pieno centro. Un vigile ci sconsiglia di prendere la SS17, a causa dai numerosi camion e del tunnel, e ci raccomanda invece la vecchia strada per Roccaraso, che fa lo stesso tragitto ma è molto meno trafficata. Il proprietario ci vede ed esce, ma con tranquillità si raccomanda solamente di non lasciare rifiuti sul prato.

Verso le 15 ci rimettiamo in marcia, dopo aver chiesto indicazioni a una coppia di laidi omosessuali cinquantenni, meches e occhiali da sole, che ci salutano con sorrisi smaglianti.

Poche centinaia di metri di SS17 tra i camion, e riprendiamo la Frentana. Superata questa forca naturale, lo scenario cambia radicalmente, e la Frentana fatta di polverose case cantoniere si veste improvvisamente dei colori della Maiella: Con la Maiella comincia anche la lunga e ripida discesa, e superato il bivio per Gamberale ci inoltriamo in folti boschi dominati dal massiccio roccioso, i cui bellissimi costoni scendono a picco per la valle. Mentre continuiamo a perdere quota, non invidiamo per niente i ciclisti che incontriamo nel senso opposto.

Come pedalare nel vuoto. La discesa ora è quasi impercettibile, quel minimo che aiuta a godersi il panorama senza impedire la pedalata. Pochi metri più avanti, ci soffermiamo ad ammirare una ben più giovine fanciulla, che si meriterà il titolo di miss Palena, e probabilmente anche miss Viaggio: Fagiani si scostano al nostro passaggio, mentre il caldo si fa sempre più tangibile ad ogni tornante, una nebbiolina di afa si spande assieme ai raggi del sole che filtrano attraverso il massiccio della Maiella.

Attraversiamo frazioni desolate governate da cani più o meno randagi. Dopo la galleria e la diga sul lago, ci attendono 2 km di salita abbastanza dura per Casoli, che superiamo agevolmente avendo ormai ripreso il ritmo dopo il tuffo. Lo attraversiamo velocemente, e subito ci lanciamo nel chilometro lanciano. Sfrecciamo attraverso rigogliose coltivazioni di tutti i tipi, pannocchie che spuntano dai loro involucri quasi per invitarti a coglierle, vigne fitte che non ci si cammina dentro, mele, uva e pere in quantità, al punto da ipotizzare una sosta duratura: Più avanti, quasi investiamo degli stupidi tacchini.

Non li avevo mai visti, ma ora so che non mi perdevo molto. Già comincia a imbrunire, e anche oggi abbiamo fatto male i calcoli con le distanze e i tempi: Il cielo disegna figure dalle prospettive ampie, giocando a mescolare nella sua tavolozza il viola e il rosa: Verremo a sapere in seguito che si tratta di un dolce ripieno di cioccolato.

Prima di condurci a casa in centro, ci chiede di attenderla 10 minuti mentre svolge una commissione; mentre la aspettiamo, sul marciapiede ci passa a fianco una coppietta: Lui è impassibile, cerca di calmarla. Federico non riesce a trattenere le risate. Io sono in grande difficoltà, perché siamo a due metri da loro. Noi o i padroni dei cani? Giunti a casa di Stefania, ci accolgono il padre con la compagna.

La cena è sontuosa e a doppio fondo, anzi a triplo. Puttanesca, formaggi locali, salumi svariati, vino a fiumi, cascate di genziana, torrenti di ratafia. E poi chitarra e canzoni a richiesta. Andare a dormire ubriachi alle 4 di mattina è sempre un buon primo passo per chi vuole prendere il regionale di ritorno da Pescara il mattino successivo, alle 9.

Il conducente è simpatico e mi fa imbarcare la bici nel bagagliaio inferiore. Tristezza e desolazione dei precari di Parco Leonardo. Alle rare fermate del treno, basta solo uno sguardo per capire chi è italiano e chi irregolare. Sommersi dal rumore ritmico dei binari si passa Ponte Galeria. Saltuarietà dei caffè nervosi bevuti dalle hostess in verde, che viaggiano girano il mondo ogni giorno senza vedere alcun luogo. Gli vorrei dire che ho sonno per farlo e che quella chiave inglese mi serve per rimontare la bici in un Paese più piatto e meno ottuso, ma lascio stare e imbarco in stiva tutto.

Due ragazze olandesi sonnecchiano al check-in, appoggiate ai loro zaini. All Stars rosse saltellanti e felpe dai colori improbabili, e montati sopra dei visi impassibili e incorniciati da capelli color grano pallido.

Dopo aver rimontato la bici — tutto fila liscio nel trasporto aereo — e aver chiesto conferma del corretto orientamento dei miei scarabocchi a un signore grassoccio in attesa degli ospiti del furgone di cui era conducente, mi inoltro per una ciclabile sparsa tra campi e canali, regno delle anatre e degli aironi.

Sono sulla strada, pedalo, sento ancora una volta il senso del viaggio. Mi pervade la volontà olandese di compensare il grigio costante del cielo con colori dalle tinte accese.

Operosi cantieri, manovratori di chiatte e fango discreto sono gli elementi che salutano il mio ingresso a Delft. Il mio stomaco suggerisce al mio occhio che questa città è indubbiamente affascinante, ma non pare offrire un copioso culto del cibo.

Mentre mi porge un cartoccio di patatine fritte e altre cose fritte, prova a imbastire uno stentato e ipocrita discorso su Roma — dice di esserci stato, e di averla apprezzata. Annuisco a bocca piena. Pranzo unto su una panchina, in compagnia dei piccioni. Dopo un costoso caffè espresso, chiamo Fabio, che sta arrivando direttamente da Amsterdam in bici: La piazza del mercato, la bellissima cattedrale dal campanile proteso in avanti a ghermire i fedeli con la sua innaturale inclinazione, la statua di Grotius, tronfia e incontaminata, la cui scena è solo parzialmente rubata da un sassofonista ambulante.

Nuvole, pioggia e sole. Mentre tracanno una Weiss racconto i miei piani di viaggio alla simpatica proprietaria del pub, che si era incuriosita della bici legata fuori a vista. Nel frattempo torna il sole, sfrecciano studenti in bici, la candela sul tavolo del pub trema davanti a me e alle vetrate. Nella piazza semivuota, un nerd fa sfoggio del suo disco volante comandato da un I-pad. Noi primitivi mediterranei restiamo ad ammirarlo. Prima di andare a dormire, si pianificano le mete dei prossimi giorni: Pare Gianna Nannini disidratata.

Dopodiché si allontana a gran velocità, seminandoci in pochi secondi. Il viaggio continua per la Gaagweg sotto la pioggia, tra pecore, capre, agnelli e grossi cavalli da tiro; ai lati, villette accoglienti dai giardini curati con devozione quasi religiosa. Qua e là, si affacciano sporadici tulipani spontanei, come fossero papaveri sulla Magliana. Dopo una breve sosta davanti a una gabbia in cui convivono sereni pavoni e daini, la pioggia si fa sempre più violenta, riga il volto, i muscoli facciali si contraggono per proteggere gli occhi e la visibilità.

Operazioni di carico, il traghettatore è una sorta di Mastro Lindo che ci sorride in modo beffardo, noi ci imbarchiamo a seguito di una ragazza in motorino alla quale Fabio chiede qualche informazione: Sbarchiamo a Rozenburg, la città delle rose, e il sole si adegua schiudendosi tra i lembi grigi e pesanti delle lenzuola del cielo olandese, e regala un colore nuovo e più vivo a ogni prato.

Nel canale, transitano enormi navi da carico dai cromatismi vivaci. Da allora fu varato il Delta Project, un gigantesco sistema di dighe e monitoraggio del livello delle acque per tenere costantemente sotto controllo la situazione. La nostra discesa passa esattamente sopra quattro di queste dighe.

Il territorio olandese è una dichiarazione di intenti e di cultura: Una sorta di trionfo della tecnica intelligente. Un Paese di gente ricca che spende i soldi bene, a differenza degli americani o di altri che lo fanno per ostentare uno status symbol. Insieme a loro, campeggiano galletti segnavento e maiali di gesso.

Una papera ci si para innanzi, sbarrandoci il passo come la lupa dantesca. Dopo una breve deviazione attraverso la zona industriale di Vierpolders, seguiamo la serpentina delle ciclabili nei campi in direzione Hellevoetsluis; percorriamo quindi un rettilineo tra fattorie e casette sparse alla luce dorata del tramonto che indugia fino a tardi.

Piantiamo la tenda al camping De Quack. Solo un numero imprecisato di roulotte deserte, tutte dotate di antenna satellitare, forse per farle somigliare di più a delle case. Un grassone si lamenta del fatto che abbiamo appoggiato una delle bici su una di esse. Ci buttiamo nelle docce bollenti, dove ci aspettano ragni delle dimensioni simili a quelle del palmo di una mano.

Portiamo il cibo nella stanza lavanderia, e ci prepariamo una suggestiva cena vista lavatrice a base di pan carrè, gouda e prosciutto affumicato. Scendono le tenebre sulla tenda.

Non fa freddo, nonostante le raffiche improvvise di vento che soffocano una musica di pessima qualità, forse una polka tirolese, da chissà dove. Notte umida e piovosa, che ha messo a dura prova gli strati protettivi tra noi e il vento. Dopo esserci informati su un bunker nazista poco distante che non visiteremo mai, lasciamo il De Quack per cimentarci con la prima delle quattro dighe che si frappongono tra noi e il confine belga — la Dammenweg.

Appena ci inoltriamo sul mostro di cemento, capisco che il dio dei ciclisti ha risparmiato le salite agli olandesi solamente per affibbiare loro in cambio il vento. Le raffiche violentissime rendono difficoltoso qualsiasi movimento, e la ruota anteriore sbanda come un timone nel mare mosso. Si procede per circa dieci chilometri al rallentatore, appaiati, quasi fosse un film muto anni Venti. Stellendam saluta il nostro passaggio con le sue pale eoliche vorticose, Havenford con la fuga scomposta dei polli sullo sterrato.

Pedaliamo con la riverenza di un toro in un negozio di cristalli. La marcia viene sovente interrotta dai bisogni fisiologici di Fabio, che si appella al diritto di piscio: Dopo una breve pausa, lasciamo Ouddorp per una ciclabile nei campi in cui una cicciona insegue le proprie capre emettendo versi poco rassicuranti: Subito dopo ci sorprende la furia degli elementi: Tutto questo, per vantare e pubblicizzare il fatto che questo piccolo borgo lo ospita ancora nel suo cimitero, e per accampare una sorta di diritti storico-turistici su un cadaverone volante.

Le nuvole sembrano voler esercitare una pressione sulla nostra andatura, come a dire, guardate che noi stiamo quassù. Ci fermiamo in prossimità di un sottopassaggio per una pisciata, invocando il diritto.

Rassicurato dalla desolazione del luogo, che affonda lento nel suo verde intenso, Fabio dà le spalle alla strada per girarsi verso un parcheggio di camper. Uno di essi, parcheggiato pochi metri più in là, decide di fargli notare con gli abbaglianti che il suo spettacolo frontale di scarico liquidi non è gradito. Immortaliamo questo prezioso momento con un autoscatto.

In quel momento, una graziosa ciclista compare, ci sorride e sfreccia via sulla sua bici da corsa. Ad anatre e folaghe subentrano per la prima volta i gabbiani. Su di esso i gabbiani prendono il sole, ci osservano e con cortesia ci lasciano il passo.

Il vento, sempre dritto in faccia, raggiunge una violenza tale da rendergli preferibile qualsiasi salita. La fine della diga sancisce il nostro ingresso in Ellemeet, grazioso paesino dove le urla del vento appaiono lontane, e tutto comunica riparo, riposo e protezione. Chi sono Philippe e Mireille? Ma è ovvio, una coppia di ciclisti hippie, con tanto di carrelli al seguito e bandierine varie. Una marea di pacchi e bagagli imbustati. Lui ha le unghie dei piedi nerastre e lunghe, che spuntano dai sandali.

Poi si allontana a pisciare nel prato, e capisco che la puzza viene da Philippe. Ci vedono, si fermano a mangiare con noi. Sono simpatici, ci salutano con larghi sorrisi, come fosse un incontro programmato da sempre.

Ci raccontano qualcosa di loro, alternando inglese, olandese e francese: Mireille è una quarantenne di Rotterdam dal corpo magro e solcato da pioggia, vento e sole. Pranziamo insieme su un tavolino di legno, mentre il cagnone sonnecchia legato a un albero, e ci scambiamo gli indirizzi. Finiamo il nostro prestigioso menu a base di good noodles al pollo e zuppa di pomodori, tutta roba che essendo liofilizzata risulta praticamente eterna e necessita solo di acqua calda.

Una benzinaia brutta mi dice di servirmi alla fontanella fuori, mentre il suo mastino mi fissa. Nel verde prepotente spicca il volo un airone cinerino. In un recinto poco più avanti, due stalloni litigano impennando gli zoccoli. Anche questa ha il campanile sinistramente inclinato in avanti.

Ci fermiamo a fare provviste a un supermercato. Ma per arrivarci, resta ancora da superare un tratto panoramico sul mare costellato di gusci di ostrica e battuto dal vento furioso.

Una panchina su una lingua di terra che si sporge nei flutti è ottimo pretesto per una foto con autoscatto, vicino a un insensato monumento ai pompieri. È ancora tardo pomeriggio quando facciamo il nostro ingresso in un campeggio surreale: Nessun essere umano, nessun essere vivente. Proseguiamo dentro non senza una certa perplessità, fino ad arrivare in un praticello ben curato dove sono disposte con estrema regolarità una dozzina di roulotte.

Al centro di esse, uno spiazzo con un tappeto elastico. In fondo, giochi per bambini, un fagiano e dei polli scappano via dal nostro sguardo. La pelle della sua fronte ha una colorazione irregolare.

Anche qui ci aspettano ragni enormi nelle docce. Tiriamo fuori le provviste dai pacchi: Il campeggio è completamente aperto, dietro una siepe piuttosto rada si spalanca una prateria estesa, dopo di lei il mare. Sarà questo che rende il cielo più ampio che altrove, tingendolo di mille colori diversi. La notte passa fredda e umida. Nel dormiveglia della tenda, io sento il fragore delle onde, Fabio sente il rombo dei camion della statale vicina: La mattina si dispiega su un livello filosofico-esistenziale: Gli incontri di apertura cosmica sono solo superficiali?

Abbiamo bisogno di un posto in cui tornare e di punti di riferimento? Happiness is real only when shared? Passiamo sotto una serie di enormi pale eoliche, mostri bianchi apparentemente silenziosi: La fine della diga ci riserva un ultimo tratto ventoso, niente in confronto alla giornata di ieri.

Le onde sono discrete, il muco fluisce dalle narici. Deviamo per Breezand nella speranza di accorciare il nostro tragitto prendendo un traghetto da Rancho Grande; per arrivarci, percorriamo una bellissima strada che costeggia la baia, a destra filari di alberi, a sinistra surfisti che sfidano le onde olandesi. Arriviamo al molo per trovare soltanto quiete e desolazione: Proseguiamo per Schotsman , piccolo borgo residenziale che rivela i profondi legami culturali e storici tra Olanda e Scozia: Si continua costeggiando un bosco, fino a un chiosco subito prima della quarta e ultima diga: Per dessert, lo chef consiglia Magnum alle mandorle, e la sana dieta del ciclista anche oggi è rispettata.

Dopo un dedalo di stradine nei campi facciamo il nostro ingresso trionfale nella bella città di Middelburg, le cui strade sono scandite da ferrovie e canali.

Una libreria piena di gabbie rumorose suggerisce di aiutare i pappagalli comprando un libro. Mentre sorveglio le bici in attesa che Fabio faccia la spesa, passa una quindicenne che pedala disinvolta e noncurante della minigonna vertiginosa, causando torcicollo di gruppo.

Imbocchiamo una ciclabile alberata in scioltezza, che ci porta fuori da Middelburg e dentro un nuovo, violento acquazzone; ormai insensibili alla pioggia, sorpassiamo in agilità un paio di skater impacciati, per essere sorpassati con altrettanta agilità da una vecchietta in sella alla sua bici da passeggio.

Sic transit gloria mundi. La pioggia se ne va ancora una volta, dopo aver colpito a freddo, e noi accompagniamo un canale fino al suo suicidio in mare a Vlissingen, dove ci si imbarca sul traghetto per superare il fiordo di Anversa. Con un filo di rimpianto per la brevità della piacevole tratta arriviamo a Breskens, città non bellissima, ma già in odor di Fiandre.

Prendiamo quindi una ciclabile che parte dalla statua di un enorme pinguino arancione più in là troneggiano fiere alcune teste di pesce blu delle stesse dimensioni ; dopo aver passato palazzi intensivi orrendi con la pretesa di ricordare tardivamente verso il decimo piano gli edifici tradizionali olandesi coi tetti spioventi, e dopo aver molestato fotograficamente pecore obese, ci ritroviamo su una pista che si inoltra per campi.

La Maledizione del Pinguino Arancione comincia a fare effetto. Subisco un processo di antonellizzazione, con gli occhiali da sole che finalmente ha un senso inforcare e che mi rendono Venditti. A metà di un campo giriamo in una parallela sterrata. Schoondijke è un paese brutto e fantasma. Entriamo in un locale il Café Bon Ami, per chiedere nuovamente informazioni: A dispetto di quanto indicatoci dal fiero pollame poco prima, ci dicono che il campeggio che cerchiamo non esiste più da anni, nonostante sia rimasto ancora indicato su Google.

Belcazzo diventa automaticamente Belcazzinculo. Si pensa addirittura di tornare a chiedere ospitalità al vecchio pollo stridente, ma è ormai lontano, forse già a cena, forse perso nei suoi campi, forse chioccia coi suoi simili. Nella piazzetta principale, ci sentiamo dire che non ci sono campeggi nelle vicinanze, e che due alberghi su tre sono pieni. Il terzo, non sanno. Molto più ospitali, decisamente troppo, le due tardone al bancone, evidentemente lacerate dalla necessità annosa di presenza maschile.

Al nostro ingresso, le baldracche cinquantenni diventano tutte sorrisoni, al punto da destare in noi seria preoccupazione. Il resto della clientela del posto sono attempati giocatori di videopoker dal fare bovino. Alla radio spopola il remix di I will survive. Un ostello con vista mulino. Pensare che le mie infradito che per gli ultimi due giorni sono state la chiglia della mia bici, montate sul portapacchi anteriore e incastrate sotto al sacco a pelo o alla spesa, esposte a vento, intemperie e pioggia battente, ora siano in una cabina della doccia che conterrebbe persino Giuliano Ferrara, a fianco di asciugamani puliti che non dovremo stendere ad asciugare noi, e a gel doccia e shampoo dai sapori inediti che rimarranno qui per la prossima doccia di vaccone teutoniche, ecco, pensare tutto questo ha un gusto particolare.

Ci svegliamo presto, e scesi giù troviamo una sontuosa colazione salata che la sorella del roito occhialuto ha preparato per i simpatici gay italiani: Lasciata Ijzendijke, siamo sorprese da uno scroscio improvviso, ma ormai la pioggia non ci fa più alcun effetto, e si parla allegramente del più e del meno sotto le secchiate continue, mentre si sorpassano corridoi alberati lastricati di inspiegabili sanpietrini.

Tra canali e deviazioni ciclabili, dopo averlo lambito e accarezzato per una ventina di chilometri, arriviamo al confine con il Belgio, trovandoci in un surreale passaggio pedonale dove non è né Belgio né Olanda. La ciclabile, stufa del paradosso, torna in Olanda, e passiamo più in là il confine senza che sia segnalato, se non dalla presenza di targhe e cartelli in fiammingo. Il passaggio del confine segna un altro stacco netto: I primi passi che tocchiamo oltre il confine sono Zelzate, Wachtebeke e Moerbeke.

Meno amore per la terra. Le case tradizionali fiamminghe sono bomboniere decorate a mano in ogni minimo dettaglio. Mi sveglio, qualcuno mi ha rubato il cellulare lasciato a caricare al bagno per la notte. Foto perse, sim persa. Una buona occasione per misurare la propria indipendenza dalla scontata tecnologia quotidiana.

Gent ci regala una giornata di sole proprio nel giorno in cui scegliamo di inoltrarci per i suoi vicoli a piedi. E si offre nel modo migliore che conosce: La meticolosa geometria a piramide delle case fiamminghe crea un contrasto con le inclinazioni che rendono imperfetti i campanili nordici.

Ci fermiamo alla Graslei, una famosa cioccolateria davanti a Lorelei. Le vie sono brulicanti di shopping. Entriamo in una grande libreria: Dopo un pranzo zozzone a base di sandwich, ci fermiamo in un grazioso caffè dalla graziosa proprietaria, dove usiamo i nostri acquisti per fare il punto della situazione.

Tutto è eccellente e di abbondanza epica, a partire dal mezzo chilo di cous-cous con un agnello che ci galleggia dentro. Chiacchiere in inglese, ricordi condivisi, mentalità nordiche.

Usciamo da Gent non senza qualche difficoltà, prima costeggiando la ferrovia, poi inoltrandoci in ciclabili a bordo canale interrotte per lavori in corso, infine raggiungendo i placidi flutti dello Schelde, che risaliremo fino alle terre francesi. Dagli scialbi sobborghi di Gent, come Merelbeke, Nazareth ed Eke, si evincono due cose: Sinaai, Nazareth, manca solo Golgota.

Arriviamo in scioltezza alla bella Oudenaarde, vivace cittadina dominata da un imponente duomo seduto a guardar scorrere via le acque dello Schelde. Ci fermiamo qui a fare provviste: Ancora edifici in stile fiammingo che sembrano usciti dalla favola di Hansel e Gretel, una piazza brulicante di botteghe, una doverosa sosta-pranzo a causa di uno scroscio di pioggia passeggera, sotto una serie di gazebi con tavolini, condita da quattro chiacchiere con una coppia di trekker, e si riparte.

Stormi di anziani ciclisti si sistemano le maglie color evidenziatore che non porterebbero in nessun altro caso, in prossimità dei loro attrezzatissimi furgoni. Non tutti quando li saluti sorridono. Le prime in assoluto dal mio sbarco a Rotterdam. Ma sbagliamo uscita, continuando in cerca di una ferrovia invisibile alla quale svoltare finendo su un lungo rettilineo in salita.

Un attimo di pausa dalla dura e inaspettata salita, il tempo di scartare una strada alternativa sul crinale perché troppo accidentata, e si scende alla velocità giusta per asciugare il sudore col freddo della sera imminente. Qualche chilometro di campagna in mezzo allo stallatico, un ultimo strappo in salita e arriviamo finalmente al bel camping Panorama, adagiato sulle dolci pendenze collinari di fronte a un grazioso reattore nucleare.

Alla reception, due donne di età indefinibile con la vaga parvenza di coppia lesbica, insieme a due bambini, magri, biondi, educati. Sono entrambe molto gentili, e ci indicano la piazzola dove piantare la tenda, che è in fondo alla discesa, subito sopra a un pollaio. Il gallo di turno ci guarda montare, e non indietreggia. Dietro la sera fiamminga, la centrale nucleare è mostruosa. Luci rosse testimoniano la sua mole anche nel buio.

Ci rendiamo involontariamente invisi agli abitanti del campeggio per n. Ma subentra la silenziosa solidarietà omertà maschile tipica dei bagni dei campeggi, per la condivisione di odori e rumori.

Facciamo appena in tempo a chiudere la tenda, che la giornata fino a quel momento serena cede il passo a una pioggia fitta e generosa che ci delizia col suo ticchettio sulla tenda per tutta la notte. Ci svegliamo che tutto intorno a noi è imperlato della pioggia notturna, e i nostri propositi di partire prima delle scorse mattinate, cementati dalla sveglia alle 6.

Riusciamo comunque a lasciare il campeggio per le nove e mezza. Incrociamo una gara di ciclisti, fretta atletica e numero sul manubrio. Non hanno tempo nemmeno per salutare. I movimenti nel gruppo sono compatti, le distanze minime. Oggi è il turno della chiatta Salvia , che sorpassiamo un paio di volte. Di nuovo campagna color verde intenso, la nostra rotta segue il nastro grigio della ciclabile che divide il prato dal fiume.

Il attendait les nuits sans lune - Quand il fait sombre, on passe bien mieux. Lâchez tous les chiens Et puis planquez-vous Au fond de vos cabanes. Poco importa la linea sulla cartina, per me il confine rimane quello. Proseguiamo ancora per un rettilineo, e da un signore che porta a spasso al guinzaglio un cane e la sua tranquillità otteniamo la conferma di essere alle porte di Roubaix, e ci inoltriamo per una periferia di casette fitte di mattoni rossi.

Una radio gracchia flebile, bambini in tute di sottomarca giocano per strada, a coppie o in gruppo; la sorellina maggiore aiuta il più piccolo ad attraversare la strada. Le case sono sempre fitte, sempre di mattoni rossi, le porte sembrano spiare i passanti. Una famiglia di nomadi brucia delle cassette di legno davanti alla loro roulotte.

Questa zona lascia scoperto un volto inedito della Francia, che nelle sue contraddizioni architettoniche e sociali dimostra un carattere forte. Su Rue de Metz, un uomo appena uscito da casa sua, una porticina verde che lascia intravedere delle scale piuttosto strette, ci dà delle indicazioni per Lille: Condividiamo parte del percorso con una famigliola in bici, i due bambini sul seggiolino dei genitori sono entusiasti della nostra ingombrante presenza, e ci salutano a più riprese.

Incrociamo un gruppo di ragazze slavate, e accanto una Peugeot con quattro mariuoli maghrebini accosta improvvisamente: Altri giri per vicoletti e case antiche, e ci fermiamo alla Citadelle, un tempo fossato di difesa, oggi promenade alberata e fitta di chioschi e giostre. Il sole è forte, e la gente ne approfitta. Aspetto vagamente mefistofelico e sorriso buono, Flo ha scelto di scortarci con la sua bici da Lille fino a casa sua a Don, un paesino 16 chilometri più a sud.

Tanto per mettere le cose in chiaro. Passeggiata lungo il fiume al tramonto, aironi e svassi nelle acque tranquille. La sua quiete irreversibile ci regala un sonno di una profondità ormai dimenticata nei lembi umidi della tenda, e stacchiamo completamente la spina fino al mattino successivo.

Passiamo un circolo di pesca. Lens ci spenna, le regaliamo venti euro di spesa, venti di cartine e venti di carta sim francese. Lens punteggiata di pompieri e poliziotti, dispiegati in un inspiegabile corteo attorno a un edificio della piazza centrale, senza alcuna emergenza apparente. Un poliziotto fa la linguaccia a un automobilista. Uscendo dal centro abitato, campagna deserta e verdissima, piana sconfinata. Qui ci fermiamo per una pausa-pranzo, e mentre siamo seduti al tavolo di un bar un artista di strada ci avvicina porgendoci due smisurate pagnotte, spiegandoci di averle prese nella spazzatura: Pranziamo con le nostre provviste al tavolino di un bar in cambio di un caffè; qui tutti sono gentili e accoglienti con chi viaggia en velo.

Piste ciclabili — Man mano che si va a sud, sono sempre più disordinate, frammentarie, infine assenti. In Olanda è una cosa assolutamente normale, quindi ti ignorano; in Francia diventi il loro eroe.

La campagna diventa sempre più bella, si passano innumerevoli paesini in andatura strozzata o vivificata dal saliscendi. La pioggia torna a farsi sentire: La affrontiamo con entusiasmo, la prima discesa sotto la pioggia scrosciante ti fa sentire vivo, poi dopo trenta chilometri di secchiate in faccia alla sensazione di sentirsi vivi subentra la voglia di restarci. La gelida regolarità delle croci cristiane è sporadicamente interrotta da qualche lapide a minareto appartenente a soldati musulmani, in un rapporto di sette, otto a trecento.

Le salite sono sempre più lunghe e pesanti, e si alternano con un certo sadismo a discese sempre più esaltanti, pedaliamo in una quadricromia esasperata, verde giallo marrone e grigio. Gli autisti dei rari TIR che incontriamo salutano con cenni della mano.

Dipende solo dalla stagione. Ormai prossimi al cedimento, sostiamo in un bar. Da dietro la spalla del papà, una bambina ci saluta. Ci spiega due o tre cose del campeggio, poi ci lascia praticamente soli nel suo fazzoletto di erba bagnata.

Ma Waterworld non ha ancora finito di esigere il suo tributo: Poi è il turno di Fabio. Assisto a uno spettacolo unico: Nuovi quaqua disperati, sommersi da altri quaqua prepotenti. I quattro sembrano far finta di non conoscersi, i loro giri si allargano di raggio, poi la femmina spicca il volo e si allontana.

Qualche minuto dopo, Fabio torna dalla doccia, con una nuova idea: F — Io riconosco de esse hardcore quante te pare, ma stavolta abbiamo superato qualche limite. Sta cosa de mettese addosso i vestiti bagnati, non avevo considerato la digestione, insomma, abbiamo esagerato. La cena è a base di scatolette e capelli bagnati, la notte fredda e densa di sogni assurdi.

Il fianco offerto in pasto al nudo cemento non aiuta, certo. Il pensiero di dover smontare la tenda la mattina presto, prima che arrivi il Caro Vecchio, nemmeno. Notte permeata da umidità a livelli insopportabili, sveglia alle 6. Il saliscendi altimetrico incide su quello umorale, che ritempriamo con dolci fatti in casa in una leggendaria boulangerie in un paesino semi-disabitato, dove una vecchia toglie le erbacce dai caduti del quattordicidiciotto.

Dopo cinque dolci e tre pain au chocolat , ripartiamo gonfi di zuccheri. Rinforza poi il suo invito a non andare spiegandoci che in Francia si valuta la qualità dei campeggi assegnando delle stelle, e, pensate, quello non ne ha neanche una, e che nel loro paese è un fatto inammissibile.

La fissiamo con i nostri bravi volti da troglodita. Ci fermiamo a fare provviste in un supermercato e a utilizzare la connessione internet di un McDonald, al costo di un caffè e di un cappuccino. Immerso nel verde di Ayencourt, il campeggio ha tre stelle ed è assolutamente pulito: Più giù, lo stagno ricco di gracidii.

Tutto è immerso nel verde e nella pace, a parte qualche animale che forse è un vitello, e che si lamenta capriccioso, cui segue la risposta di anatre irridenti.

Dopo le minacce iniziali e qualche sibilo di avvertimento, le pennute si danno alla fuga. La notte è più umida del previsto, e dopo la bella serata di ieri non mantiene le promesse; vestiti bagnati e nuvole che velano il sole fino a poterlo vedere fissandolo, come una sfera bianca. Attraversiamo la solita schiera di paesini abbarbicati intorno ai campanili delle loro chiese gotiche, archi a sesto acuto semidiroccati, nascosti da boschi fitti e densi di brina, nonché dalle pisciate di Fabio.

Ancora dei tratti spettacolari di nulla giallo e verde, nuvole di diversa altezza vicinanza e compattezza rivelano i loro intenti pioviferi in maniera minacciosa ma vaga. Distese di fascino mozzafiato, leggera discesa tra i campi di verde appena germogliato, tra Le Neuville e Érain, e tra Avrigny e Sacy Le Grand. La pioggia, rassicurata dalla rinnovata quiete umida tutto intorno, riprende. Superiamo una salita dolce e costante in rettilineo, a parte noi esiste solo il bosco.

Arriviamo quindi alla graziosa Cinqueux, dove è tutto chiuso. Scendiamo fino a Rieux, conclusione morale del nostro viaggio ciclistico. Da qui in poi è cemento, zone industriali e rotatorie trafficate. Cumuli di immondizia e giocattoli usati. In prossimità di Villers St. Dopo aver sbagliato strada un paio di volte, superiamo il fiume ed entriamo a Creil, pittoresco esempio di borgata abitata da un mosaico sociale di gente di ogni ceto, provenienza e religione. Solo il traffico di St.

Maximin ora ci separa da quella che abbiamo eletto la conclusione effettiva del nostro viaggio in bici, la città di Chantilly. Oltretutto, per entrare da quel lato saremmo dovuti partire da Bordeaux. Quasi senza crederci, poggiamo i piedi e le ruote sulla banchina del binario.

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La sua ampia terrazza offre una vista eccezionale sull'oceano Atlantico e la penisola di Caravelle. Si compone di sei camere con bagno, WC, letto reti e sicurezza.

Grande terrazza con vista sul mare. Cucina, lavanderia e soggiorno molto piacevole con mobili in stile. Si ottiene un molo privato e una terrazza con vista sul mare e un bellissimo giardino. Capacità totale di 20 persone. È completamente attrezzato e arredato per 8 persone. Ci sono 4 camere climatizzate, ognuna con bagno privato e servizi igienici. La vista e il posto è magico. Inoltre, la bella terrazza affacciata sul giardino, rappresenta gli inquilini preferiti vivere posto.

È la villa ideale per le vacanze con la famiglia e gli amici Avrete una vista fantastica del quartiere. Appartamento per 4 persone tra cui 2 camere, 1 bagno, 1 cucina con lavastoviglie e lavatrice, 1 salotto con TV e Wi-Fi, terrazza con angolo pasto, il soggiorno, giardino con doccia à la carte, prendere il sole e all'aperto.

Lenzuola e asciugamani sono forniti. La tariffa di noleggio: Del villaggio di noli venti bungalows sono situati sulle alture del villaggio di Sainte-Anne, nel Grand Sud della Martinica, dove le spiagge padre sandy golden Godetevi il vostro soggiorno nell'isola dei fiori. F2 o F4 di noli-Village bungalows sono sparsi su un tetro che domina il villaggio di Sainte-Anne. Essi godono il soffio rinfrescante di Alisei.

Particolare attenzione è stata data per l'insonorizzazione e l'isolamento termico degli appartamenti. Alcuni F2 sono in up di uno studio porta di sinistra che fu vice casa chiusa porta destra chiuso da F2 è arredata 2 letti di x90cm di un armadio guardaroba per lo storage e una televisione. Decorazione, seconda a nessuno è firmato da Nicole.

Kassyou e Katychayou, Nestle in un giardino di m2, dove i fiori e i frutti vi invitano ad un viaggio di profumo e sapore. Il Residence "Caldaia" è vincitore del concorso "I fiori, prestiti pianta! Si possono praticare windsurf, kayak, sci, surf, mountain bike, concia e oziare all'ombra delle palme da cocco di Cape cavaliere. Essi sono completamente attrezzato angolo cottura con piano cottura, forno, frigo camera bagno; letto matrimoniale, soppalco con 2 letti; TV; lenzuola fornite.

José OCTAVE meilleur endroit rencontre Domaine de Belfond restaurant rencontre perpignan avis Sainte-Anne Martinique dejeuner rencontre st hubert F2 affitto duplex in un'area idealmente situato vicino a negozi, ristoranti e la spiaggia della pointe de marin. Nelle vicinanze troverete una pizzeria, self-service, panetteria, mercati locali, la spiaggia bianca di Anse Michel, gli isolotti di cavaliere tappo con i loro fondi e loro molte attività nautiche. Ristorante sul posto cucina francese , colazione, mezza pensione, Pensione accesso Wi-Fi.

Villa con 3 possibilità di noleggio, affacciato su un terrazzo e giardino, 10 minuti dalla spiaggia e zone di negozi e centro città punto di Marin. F1, F2, F3, completamente climatizzate e arredate, fornite di biancheria. F1 capacità 2 persone F2 capacità 3 persone F3 capacità 4 persone: In Italia e in tutta Europa a prezzi imbattibili verso oltre 1. La Farce de maître Pathelin ; TrentoBlog in annunci donne single,foto di donne belle deldonna cerca relazione programma estivo dichat dove conoscere insegna alla scuola d'arte di Aix en Provence e vive a Serres, nelle Hautes Alpes.

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